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Discussion Starter #1
It appears that Chevy decided to make all (or most) of the vehicle sounds/chimes/alerts/blinkers work through the factory audio system on my 2019 Chevy Blazer.

After adding an aftermarket JL Audio amplifier (Xd400/4v2) and the Fix86 OEM integration controller to the existing stock Bose speakers I now have EXTREMELY LOUD sounds/chimes/alerts/blinkers and such.

Does anyone know how to manually turn down or turn off these sounds? As you start the vehicle they sound normal but once the amp powers up they get instantly louder. The installer claimed he could fine-tune this using JL Audio TUN software but they have yet to do it after 3 trips (over an hour away from me) because that guy was out or busy.:unsure:
 

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It appears that Chevy decided to make all (or most) of the vehicle sounds/chimes/alerts/blinkers work through the factory audio system on my 2019 Chevy Blazer.

After adding an aftermarket JL Audio amplifier (Xd400/4v2) and the Fix86 OEM integration controller to the existing stock Bose speakers I now have EXTREMELY LOUD sounds/chimes/alerts/blinkers and such.

Does anyone know how to manually turn down or turn off these sounds? As you start the vehicle they sound normal but once the amp powers up they get instantly louder. The installer claimed he could fine-tune this using JL Audio TUN software but they have yet to do it after 3 trips (over an hour away from me) because that guy was out or busy.:unsure:
I am in the process of trying to use a line output converter to hook up a amp and sub in my new blazer .. i did this in my wife’s Honda and it worked flawlessly .. basically it pulls a signal from the rear speakers and converts them into low level outputs for an amp.. you tap into the speaker wire feeding one of the rear speakers and then on the other end you have RCAs to connect to your amp .. it bypasses the headunit and stock system which I prefer to always just leave alone .. my blazer is the 2020 RS and has Bose system which sounds great .. but I have a Rockford T1 that I absolutely have to get hooked up! I will let you know if it works out .. I have done this in my 04 tahoe z71 with Bose .. our super old acura Rsx and a 2016 Honda Civic all of them worked out well .. the acura i did with out converter .. I simply spliced into a set of RCAS and ran speaker wire out of one end to each of the rear speakers to pull my signal for the amp .. it did have some issues but i got it to work .. it wasn’t the best quality sound because there was no converter changing the signal from high to low. I am no professional by any means but I have hooked up a ton of stereos and find this way to be super easy and quick and sounds great .. in my experience trying to integrate with the stock systems never worked out well and always sounded worse after it was complete ..
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I hope the line output converter works well for you!

I had mixed results from a weekend visit to the install shop. All in all they did manage to tune the chime volume down to a reasonable level. My theory is they achieved this by simply turning the gain down on the front & rear channels of my amp. I had attempted this myself but I only turned down the front gain (not realizing I skipped the rear) and obviously it did not work. The only problem I have now is my volume knob has to be turned up higher than previously which seems to distort the sound slightly.

Next they found a software setting on the factory head unit to lower the chime level slightly more. I was aware of this setting from my initial browsing when I bought the car but had forgotten where it was. Ironically this setting will only drop to a certain level and stops, even though the progress bar shows it could drop even lower if whatever "lock" that stops it was toggled off?

They had initially claimed they would be able to use the TUN software to lower it but I don't think that happened because when I asked the installer he just rushed me along with "Yah, yah, we did that" but did not elaborate on how well it worked even though I asked repeatedly.

I'm thinking since I have (4) 12" sub woofers with (3) other amps I might disconnect from the factory head unit altogether and just use an EQ with a hard wired USB-C/Lightning adapter plugged directly into my phone. I will loose some features from the head unit but at least it will be running seperatley and direct to the amps with no Bluetooth, Android Auto or CarPlay lag. The factory front/rear Bose speakers will be disconnected from the head unit but I will leave the dash center speaker working with the head unit & chimes.
 

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I am in the process of trying to use a line output converter to hook up a amp and sub in my new blazer .. i did this in my wife’s Honda and it worked flawlessly .. basically it pulls a signal from the rear speakers and converts them into low level outputs for an amp.. you tap into the speaker wire feeding one of the rear speakers and then on the other end you have RCAs to connect to your amp .. it bypasses the headunit and stock system which I prefer to always just leave alone .. my blazer is the 2020 RS and has Bose system which sounds great .. but I have a Rockford T1 that I absolutely have to get hooked up! I will let you know if it works out .. I have done this in my 04 tahoe z71 with Bose .. our super old acura Rsx and a 2016 Honda Civic all of them worked out well .. the acura i did with out converter .. I simply spliced into a set of RCAS and ran speaker wire out of one end to each of the rear speakers to pull my signal for the amp .. it did have some issues but i got it to work .. it wasn’t the best quality sound because there was no converter changing the signal from high to low. I am no professional by any means but I have hooked up a ton of stereos and find this way to be super easy and quick and sounds great .. in my experience trying to integrate with the stock systems never worked out well and always sounded worse after it was complete ..
image.jpg

I hope the line output converter works well for you!

I had mixed results from a weekend visit to the install shop. All in all they did manage to tune the chime volume down to a reasonable level. My theory is they achieved this by simply turning the gain down on the front & rear channels of my amp. I had attempted this myself but I only turned down the front gain (not realizing I skipped the rear) and obviously it did not work. The only problem I have now is my volume knob has to be turned up higher than previously which seems to distort the sound slightly.

Next they found a software setting on the factory head unit to lower the chime level slightly more. I was aware of this setting from my initial browsing when I bought the car but had forgotten where it was. Ironically this setting will only drop to a certain level and stops, even though the progress bar shows it could drop even lower if whatever "lock" that stops it was toggled off?

They had initially claimed they would be able to use the TUN software to lower it but I don't think that happened because when I asked the installer he just rushed me along with "Yah, yah, we did that" but did not elaborate on how well it worked even though I asked repeatedly.

I'm thinking since I have (4) 12" sub woofers with (3) other amps I might disconnect from the factory head unit altogether and just use an EQ with a hard wired USB-C/Lightning adapter plugged directly into my phone. I will loose some features from the head unit but at least it will be running seperatley and direct to the amps with no Bluetooth, Android Auto or CarPlay lag. The factory front/rear Bose speakers will be disconnected from the head unit but I will leave the dash center speaker working with the head unit & chimes.
 

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Hey David! Any luck with your install? .. I am almost done with mine hoping to finish it up this weekend and see how it turns out! I will keep you posted the wiring diagram from the other post was huge!!! It should save me some time once i get it all opened up
 

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Hey guys new to the forum! I have an RS NON Bose, is adding a sub an amp as easy as amp kit and and LOC or am I missing something? If you guys have any tips on the firewall access I’d appreciate it.
 

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I installed 2 kicker L7 12s powered by a kicker 1200 d class mono amp. Key is to get a good quality like out converter. I have run pac for a long time they are worth the money. My system hits really hard and sounds really clear for a factory head unit.
20200229_113532.jpg
 

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Hey David! Any luck with your install? .. I am almost done with mine hoping to finish it up this weekend and see how it turns out! I will keep you posted the wiring diagram from the other post was huge!!! It should save me some time once i get it all opened up
Sorry for the late reply AlphaLame.

GM made this a nightmare by adding the chimes/blinkers to the factory audio system. Hopefully they release a software fix in the future? Until someone figures out how to quiet up the amplified chimes/blinkers here is where I ended up.

I separated my system from the factory head unit. This appeared to be the only way to get rid of the amplified chimes/blinkers. This system hits "EXTREMELY HARD" but does not cause any battery issues or "flickering" of lights and no sound clipping or cutout.

As of now here is my system config (with thumbnail photos):

1-Audio Control Three.2 EQ tucked in front above the wireless charging pad (used to control all volume & combined bass control)

2-separate black bass control knobs tucked under the armrest (controls each set of subwoofers interdependently)

My Phone plugs directly into EQ via USB-C or Lighning with instant connection to music (could have been Bluetooth but I did not want any lag and connection issues)

The EQ feeds all 4 JL Audio digital amps (front/rear/subs ~ all tucked under the rears seats)

1-JL Audio Xd400/4v2 amp feeds 4 factory Bose speakers in doors (front/rear)

1-JL Audio Xd1000/1v2 amp feeds 2-JL Audio 12tw3 subwoofers (shared box space closest to the lift-gate)

2-JL Audio Xd600/1v2 amps feed 2-JL Audio 12w6v3 subwoofers (independent box space just behind rear seats)

The factory head unit feeds the factory Bose center speaker only (on top of dash) for all chimes/blinkers and radio stations (not the best but the loud chimes drove me crazy). The stereo shop said they still need to swap the factory feed from the left front drivers door speaker with the center speaker feed so that the factory Bluetooth/OnStar "Mic" will work properly. Supposedly they just ran out of time but I am hesitant to believe it. I think they tried this and it failed but they did not want to admit it?:mad: I will update when I do this.

My subwoofers use the space where the spare tire/storage was housed (yes I'll need a tow if I get a flat). You'll notice I removed the aluminum guide rails and the factory lift-up tire/storage cover for a clean look.

I also have an elevated platform/cover (not in photos yet) that is being carpeted and will have LED lighting that covers the woofers and allows for full storage space in the back. It will have the blackout "BLAZER" emblem (used on the outside of the drivers/passenger doors) visible on the edge when you open the lift-gate and will have the "JL" Audio logo lighted up through the carpet where each subwoofer is underneath.

If anyone wants a shop local to them to cut this box with a CNC router I might be able to send them the file??? It just glues & screws together, then you seal the inside with silicone and carpet it. Pretty easy for a novice to do.

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Discussion Starter #9
Hey David! Any luck with your install? .. I am almost done with mine hoping to finish it up this weekend and see how it turns out! I will keep you posted the wiring diagram from the other post was huge!!! It should save me some time once i get it all opened up
I forgot to ask how your system turned out?
 
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