2019 Chevy Blazer Forum banner

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Discussion Starter #1
It appears that Chevy decided to make all (or most) of the vehicle sounds/chimes/alerts/blinkers work through the factory audio system on my 2019 Chevy Blazer.

After adding an aftermarket JL Audio amplifier (Xd400/4v2) and the Fix86 OEM integration controller to the existing stock Bose speakers I now have EXTREMELY LOUD sounds/chimes/alerts/blinkers and such.

Does anyone know how to manually turn down or turn off these sounds? As you start the vehicle they sound normal but once the amp powers up they get instantly louder. The installer claimed he could fine-tune this using JL Audio TUN software but they have yet to do it after 3 trips (over an hour away from me) because that guy was out or busy.:unsure:
 

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It appears that Chevy decided to make all (or most) of the vehicle sounds/chimes/alerts/blinkers work through the factory audio system on my 2019 Chevy Blazer.

After adding an aftermarket JL Audio amplifier (Xd400/4v2) and the Fix86 OEM integration controller to the existing stock Bose speakers I now have EXTREMELY LOUD sounds/chimes/alerts/blinkers and such.

Does anyone know how to manually turn down or turn off these sounds? As you start the vehicle they sound normal but once the amp powers up they get instantly louder. The installer claimed he could fine-tune this using JL Audio TUN software but they have yet to do it after 3 trips (over an hour away from me) because that guy was out or busy.:unsure:
I am in the process of trying to use a line output converter to hook up a amp and sub in my new blazer .. i did this in my wife’s Honda and it worked flawlessly .. basically it pulls a signal from the rear speakers and converts them into low level outputs for an amp.. you tap into the speaker wire feeding one of the rear speakers and then on the other end you have RCAs to connect to your amp .. it bypasses the headunit and stock system which I prefer to always just leave alone .. my blazer is the 2020 RS and has Bose system which sounds great .. but I have a Rockford T1 that I absolutely have to get hooked up! I will let you know if it works out .. I have done this in my 04 tahoe z71 with Bose .. our super old acura Rsx and a 2016 Honda Civic all of them worked out well .. the acura i did with out converter .. I simply spliced into a set of RCAS and ran speaker wire out of one end to each of the rear speakers to pull my signal for the amp .. it did have some issues but i got it to work .. it wasn’t the best quality sound because there was no converter changing the signal from high to low. I am no professional by any means but I have hooked up a ton of stereos and find this way to be super easy and quick and sounds great .. in my experience trying to integrate with the stock systems never worked out well and always sounded worse after it was complete ..
 

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I hope the line output converter works well for you!

I had mixed results from a weekend visit to the install shop. All in all they did manage to tune the chime volume down to a reasonable level. My theory is they achieved this by simply turning the gain down on the front & rear channels of my amp. I had attempted this myself but I only turned down the front gain (not realizing I skipped the rear) and obviously it did not work. The only problem I have now is my volume knob has to be turned up higher than previously which seems to distort the sound slightly.

Next they found a software setting on the factory head unit to lower the chime level slightly more. I was aware of this setting from my initial browsing when I bought the car but had forgotten where it was. Ironically this setting will only drop to a certain level and stops, even though the progress bar shows it could drop even lower if whatever "lock" that stops it was toggled off?

They had initially claimed they would be able to use the TUN software to lower it but I don't think that happened because when I asked the installer he just rushed me along with "Yah, yah, we did that" but did not elaborate on how well it worked even though I asked repeatedly.

I'm thinking since I have (4) 12" sub woofers with (3) other amps I might disconnect from the factory head unit altogether and just use an EQ with a hard wired USB-C/Lightning adapter plugged directly into my phone. I will loose some features from the head unit but at least it will be running seperatley and direct to the amps with no Bluetooth, Android Auto or CarPlay lag. The factory front/rear Bose speakers will be disconnected from the head unit but I will leave the dash center speaker working with the head unit & chimes.
 

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I am in the process of trying to use a line output converter to hook up a amp and sub in my new blazer .. i did this in my wife’s Honda and it worked flawlessly .. basically it pulls a signal from the rear speakers and converts them into low level outputs for an amp.. you tap into the speaker wire feeding one of the rear speakers and then on the other end you have RCAs to connect to your amp .. it bypasses the headunit and stock system which I prefer to always just leave alone .. my blazer is the 2020 RS and has Bose system which sounds great .. but I have a Rockford T1 that I absolutely have to get hooked up! I will let you know if it works out .. I have done this in my 04 tahoe z71 with Bose .. our super old acura Rsx and a 2016 Honda Civic all of them worked out well .. the acura i did with out converter .. I simply spliced into a set of RCAS and ran speaker wire out of one end to each of the rear speakers to pull my signal for the amp .. it did have some issues but i got it to work .. it wasn’t the best quality sound because there was no converter changing the signal from high to low. I am no professional by any means but I have hooked up a ton of stereos and find this way to be super easy and quick and sounds great .. in my experience trying to integrate with the stock systems never worked out well and always sounded worse after it was complete ..
image.jpg

I hope the line output converter works well for you!

I had mixed results from a weekend visit to the install shop. All in all they did manage to tune the chime volume down to a reasonable level. My theory is they achieved this by simply turning the gain down on the front & rear channels of my amp. I had attempted this myself but I only turned down the front gain (not realizing I skipped the rear) and obviously it did not work. The only problem I have now is my volume knob has to be turned up higher than previously which seems to distort the sound slightly.

Next they found a software setting on the factory head unit to lower the chime level slightly more. I was aware of this setting from my initial browsing when I bought the car but had forgotten where it was. Ironically this setting will only drop to a certain level and stops, even though the progress bar shows it could drop even lower if whatever "lock" that stops it was toggled off?

They had initially claimed they would be able to use the TUN software to lower it but I don't think that happened because when I asked the installer he just rushed me along with "Yah, yah, we did that" but did not elaborate on how well it worked even though I asked repeatedly.

I'm thinking since I have (4) 12" sub woofers with (3) other amps I might disconnect from the factory head unit altogether and just use an EQ with a hard wired USB-C/Lightning adapter plugged directly into my phone. I will loose some features from the head unit but at least it will be running seperatley and direct to the amps with no Bluetooth, Android Auto or CarPlay lag. The factory front/rear Bose speakers will be disconnected from the head unit but I will leave the dash center speaker working with the head unit & chimes.
 
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